The Hampden: An Introduction <em>By Robin Clementson</em>
For many heritage brands, their legacy has been built over decades and, in some cases, centuries. By refining their craft, they’ve built a reputation that stands the test of time.
Although premium coat-maker Barnfield Customs was established in 2020, its made-to-order process is already a carefully honed craft.
Led by founder and owner Mark Warman from the brand’s Nottinghamshire headquarters, every detail is meticulously considered, from the provenance of the fabric to the tension of the very last stitch. Each piece is handmade in England to ensure premium quality and durability.
Here, I speak to Mark about the inspiration and process behind his latest garment, the Hampden peacoat, which will be available to order from January 2025.
Hi Mark. Can you talk briefly through the original motivation for the peacoat?
Hi Robin. When you look at the origins of almost every piece of menswear, they were all initially developed to fulfil a practical need. The trench coat, bomber jacket, flight jacket and even the t-shirt have their roots in military uniform where form must follow function.
I’ve always been drawn to the authenticity and honesty of that approach to design and the peacoat presented a really interesting challenge. On the one hand, it’s very clearly rooted in workwear. On the other, the slim silhouette and double breasted lapels lend it to being a more refined piece.
Whether it’s through fabric or design choices, I’m always looking at how I can make Barnfield products luxury. More sophisticated and tailored.
How did you decide on the fit and fabric for the piece?
Traditionally, peacoats worn by sailors would have been cut to a slim fit with a high armhole so that they could move around the ship, without being restricted or worrying about getting caught on anything and in all sorts of weather.
Wool is incredible. Because of the natural structure of the fibres, the fabric traps heat and creates an insulating layer of air close to the body when it’s cold. On the other hand, when it’s warmer, it wicks moisture away from the skin which keeps you cool. On top of that, real wool contains lanolin which is naturally anti-bacterial.
All of these incredible properties are lost when man-made elements like polyester or nylon are introduced, leaving you with a facsimile or replica of what a peacoat really should be.
“All of these incredible properties are lost when man-made elements are introduced, leaving you with a facsimile or replica of what a peacoat really should be.”
Can you give a little detail on the fabric?
I’m using a heavyweight 650gsm 100% wool melton from AW Hainsworth. As a company, they’ve been making wool fabrics since 1783. They have a royal warrant, have clothed King Charles and developed the very first RAF blue fabric.
I want this to be a generational coat. Something that can be handed down father to son. I want it to be beautiful, but I also want it to be durable. That’s part of the reason I decided to line the front and side panels with the same fabric as the outer. This has made it beautifully warm and reassuringly heavy.
How many different pieces make each of the jackets?
The pattern is made up of 38 individual pieces ranging in size and material from the external back pieces cut from melton wool, to the silk lining on the back and sleeves, sateen pocket bags or the reinforced jets around each pocket opening.
That said, it has been designed to look clean and unfussy. Like art director and graphic designer Paul Rand said, “Design is simple. That’s why it’s so complicated.”
Can you explain the colour offer?
The first sample was black and when I started to post about it, one of my Lawrence customers made a comment that it would be useful to see it in a colour that showed more detail. So we made the next in an RAF blue/grey that I managed to secure a short run of before it was discontinued.
I only really intended on using the colour for sampling but people have been commenting that they really like it. It’s not something I can get my hands on again but I have enough to make 4 or 5 as a very limited edition offering.
“It’s not something I can get my hands on again but I have enough to make 4 or 5 as a very limited edition offering.”
Beyond that, I’ll offer it in a rich black. The aim is to elevate the Hampden from a traditional peacoat to something you’d happily wear to a formal event - going to the theatre, an award ceremony, an art gallery opening etc...
I think that creates an opportunity to step away from the traditional navy but that’s not to say I’m ruling it out in the future.
What are the finer detailing points that might not be immediately noticeable?
The Hampden is a functional six button, double breasted peacoat which means it can be fastened left over right or right over left. That’s a very deliberate choice to pay tribute to its original purpose.
Something that took a lot of thought, trial and error is the lining. Normally, a coat would have a narrow strip of outer fabric at the lapel facing, which in turn is attached to a thin lining fabric such as silk or rayon. Traditionally, a peacoat isn’t lined with insulation. Instead, the warmth comes from the wool outer. In most cases this is fine but there are times when one layer of melton, no matter how heavy, just won’t cut it.
So, rather than using silk, I designed the Hampden to use the same melton fabric to line the front and side panels. This makes the coat twice as protective and also creates a second layer to trap warm air.
“This makes the coat twice as protective and also creates a second layer to trap warm air.”
There are three inside pockets, one on the right and two on the left. These are stacked one on top of the other with the upper being 7” wide and 9” deep to accommodate larger phones and the lower is 6” wide and 7.5” deep for smaller phones, wallets or passports.
All the pockets are finished with bar tacks on the horizontal openings. This is to provide more strength and durability to these areas which can take a hammering over a coat's lifetime.
Where is the coat made and what is the process for each made to order piece?
The process is slightly different for each product but everything we make is handmade to order in England.
The Hampden is a flagship product and the attention that’s required to make sure each one lives up to the promises I make around quality and detail means that they can’t be turned around overnight.
The skills and experience necessary to meet my expectations are in high demand and short supply, this means that there’s a 6 to 12 week wait between an order being placed and delivery.
“The skills and experience necessary to meet my expectations are in high demand and short supply”
During this time, I’m in constant contact with the team and write to my customers every other week with an update. Even if there’s very little movement, it’s important to touch base and bring them in on the journey. By staying in touch, customers get to savour and be part of the process.
The products we create are the business, but Barnfield will always be a story of community and connections. When someone places an order, the first email they get is to book in a virtual fitting with me. I walk them through the process of taking measurements and help to make sure they order the right size.
After delivery, I stay in touch to make sure everything’s as expected. I also offer a repair service in case there are any issues further down the line. These personal interactions mean that my customers are more than just an order number. They’re each part of a growing community of people who see the world through the same lens and at some point, I’m really keen to start running events that bring us all together.
How often do you visit the factory and quality control the process?
During the sampling phase, I’ll visit initially to make sure we’re on the same page. A huge amount can be done online but nothing beats face-to-face communication.
If it was up to me, I’d be at the factory every day, but the reality of it is that I’d only be in the way. Everyone involved is a professional with years, if not decades of experience and I have to respect that.
Once the sampling phase is done and we go into full production, I stay in close contact so that I can let my customers know what stage we’re at and keep them up to date. Then, once all the parts are cut and fused, I head in to oversee the construction but again, this is more for me and to be able to send photos to my customers. The team know exactly what they’re doing and so the next time I see the product is when it arrives on my doorstep.
Can you give detail around the buttons if not already?
The buttons are a detail I’m particularly proud of. They’re made from genuine buffalo horn which means that each one is completely unique. Finished in a semi-gloss which showcases the natural grain and texture, they add to the individuality of every coat we produce.
The process of turning horn into buttons is an art in itself; they start as blanks, which are shaped and polished over several days to achieve their final form.
The edge surface of each one is laser engraved with BARNFIELD GREAT BRITAIN. I wanted to reinforce the brand's roots and designed them to be reminiscent of the pound coins that I grew up with in the 1980s.
“I wanted to reinforce the brand’s roots and designed them to be reminiscent of the pound coins that I grew up with in the 1980s.”
Beyond the aesthetics, they’re fully biodegradable and a by-product of the farming industry. This means that they offer a sustainable alternative to the customer and an income stream for the farmers. It’s the kind of detail that resonates with our philosophy: timeless design and a deep respect for the materials we use.
Talk about the price-point and the life-span of the coat and why this is important to you?
Traditionally, clothing retails at six times the cost of production. If I were to follow this, the Hampden would retail at more than £5k. By selling direct to consumer and by making to order, which cuts wastage down to an absolute minimum, I can put all the value I can into the end product.
The only way clothing can be produced at many of today’s prices is by cutting corners. Whether it’s obvious, such as cheap fabrics and poor-quality manufacturing, or less so, like outsourcing to factories with questionable environmental and human rights records. There are plenty of brands that have gone down that route. Barnfield won’t be one of them.
“There are plenty of brands that have gone down that route. Barnfield won’t be one of them.”
I’m not designing and making whilst thinking about turning a profit tomorrow, I’m looking at 10, 20, 30+ years down the line. I want my customers to be able to hand their coats down to their children. I see them as generational products and make decisions with that in mind.
If something is cheap, someone has paid for it somewhere along the line. That could be the farmers growing the raw materials, it could be the technicians making the clothing itself, or it could be the customer who has to replace their coat after the seams break, the fabric tears or wears out.
Give me a few words to describe the DNA of Barnfield. What are those core values?
Our manifesto details 21 points that are core to our approach but if I had to keep it simple, it’s quality over quantity at every touch point. Whether that’s the product or the customer service.
