Each jacket takes five fabrics, two interfacings, two sizes of Corozo button and a whole raft of other bits. The gabardine is already here, and the wool, the rib, the buttons and the thread were ordered last week. Everything comes to me first so I can go through it with a fine-tooth comb before it goes anywhere near the tailors.
Pre-order
Order number 50
At 9.24 this evening, order number 50 came in. That's 34 hours, 24 minutes and 16 seconds after early access opened, and four years after I started. I don't quite know what to say.
Pre-order
Fifty only
The Lawrence goes on sale on Saturday 29 April at 11am. There's enough gabardine for fifty jackets, so there will be fifty. Five hundred laser-etched Corozo buttons arrived from a local button maker in under three weeks.
Final sample
The seventh
Collected the final sample from Agnes in Leicester today. Seven prototypes, four years after the first sketch. It's ready.
Cloth
Out of stock
The mill that weaves our gabardine has stopped taking orders, and the black is out of stock. I've spent close to two years on this cloth. Back on the phone.
Cloth
Fifty metres of wool
Drove to Shipley this morning to collect 50 metres of British wool wadding from Genady at Kofibres. Next stop Harvey Quilting, where Tony and Neil will combine it with the printed lining. Meanwhile, Agnes in Leicester is stitching up the size samples.
Fit sample
The back
Picked up the latest prototype today. The back now tapers in to follow the curve of the lower back, the body is an inch longer and the sleeves are half an inch longer. The bad news: the sew-in interfacing has already come away from the collar and pocket flaps. The hunt is on for an organic fusible.
Design
Finished
The finished lining artwork landed in my inbox today, nearly two years after Tom and I first spoke. It's one map of Great Britain through the seasons, 1.5 metres wide and 2.5 metres long, from the Old Man of Storr to Stonehenge. Each jacket takes up to two metres of it, so no two linings will ever be the same.
Design
On the map
Tom has had an idea that changes the whole lining. Instead of the illustrations floating on their own, he'll draw the outline of Britain in a bold line, the contours in a finer one, and set everything on the map. More work, but I think it's the right call.
Cloth
Tony and Neil
Today I met Tony at Harvey Quilting in Nottingham. He has the machines to combine the printed organic cotton with British wool into one quilted lining, and Neil, who quilts alongside him, has 42 years in the trade. In the UK most factories specialise, so the Lawrence is going to be made by a lot of different hands.
Specification
Outer: 350gsm organic cotton gabardine
Lining: organic cotton sateen, printed with Tom Moore's map of Britain
Insulation: British wool, quilted in Nottingham
Cuffs: recessed 2x1 organic cotton rib
Buttons: laser-etched Corozo
Buttonholes: keyhole, cut on a Reece 101
Who made it
Lining artwork: Tom Moore, Last Maps
Quilting: Harvey Quilting, Nottingham
Wool wadding: Kofibres, Shipley
Make: Agnes, Leicester
Buttonholes: Bolton
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