The Lawrence

Quilted gabardine jacket  ·  Fifty made, 2023

The Lawrence

The first Barnfield jacket, inspired by a photograph of my great grandfather in his 1902 pattern service dress. Fifty made.

  1. Design, complete August 2022
  2. Pattern, complete February 2022
  3. Toile, complete December 2021
  4. Fit sample, complete December 2022
  5. Cloth, complete January 2023
  6. Final sample, complete March 2023
  7. Preorder open, complete April 2023
  8. In production, complete October 2023
  9. Delivered, complete October 2023

The Ledger

From the first sketch.

33 entries

Production starts

Each jacket takes five fabrics, two interfacings, two sizes of Corozo button and a whole raft of other bits. The gabardine is already here, and the wool, the rib, the buttons and the thread were ordered last week. Everything comes to me first so I can go through it with a fine-tooth comb before it goes anywhere near the tailors.

Order number 50

At 9.24 this evening, order number 50 came in. That's 34 hours, 24 minutes and 16 seconds after early access opened, and four years after I started. I don't quite know what to say.

Fifty only

The Lawrence goes on sale on Saturday 29 April at 11am. There's enough gabardine for fifty jackets, so there will be fifty. Five hundred laser-etched Corozo buttons arrived from a local button maker in under three weeks.

The seventh

Collected the final sample from Agnes in Leicester today. Seven prototypes, four years after the first sketch. It's ready.

Out of stock

The mill that weaves our gabardine has stopped taking orders, and the black is out of stock. I've spent close to two years on this cloth. Back on the phone.

Fifty metres of wool

Drove to Shipley this morning to collect 50 metres of British wool wadding from Genady at Kofibres. Next stop Harvey Quilting, where Tony and Neil will combine it with the printed lining. Meanwhile, Agnes in Leicester is stitching up the size samples.

The back

Picked up the latest prototype today. The back now tapers in to follow the curve of the lower back, the body is an inch longer and the sleeves are half an inch longer. The bad news: the sew-in interfacing has already come away from the collar and pocket flaps. The hunt is on for an organic fusible.

Finished

The finished lining artwork landed in my inbox today, nearly two years after Tom and I first spoke. It's one map of Great Britain through the seasons, 1.5 metres wide and 2.5 metres long, from the Old Man of Storr to Stonehenge. Each jacket takes up to two metres of it, so no two linings will ever be the same.

On the map

Tom has had an idea that changes the whole lining. Instead of the illustrations floating on their own, he'll draw the outline of Britain in a bold line, the contours in a finer one, and set everything on the map. More work, but I think it's the right call.

Tony and Neil

Today I met Tony at Harvey Quilting in Nottingham. He has the machines to combine the printed organic cotton with British wool into one quilted lining, and Neil, who quilts alongside him, has 42 years in the trade. In the UK most factories specialise, so the Lawrence is going to be made by a lot of different hands.

Specification

  • Outer: 350gsm organic cotton gabardine
  • Lining: organic cotton sateen, printed with Tom Moore's map of Britain
  • Insulation: British wool, quilted in Nottingham
  • Cuffs: recessed 2x1 organic cotton rib
  • Buttons: laser-etched Corozo
  • Buttonholes: keyhole, cut on a Reece 101

Who made it

  • Lining artwork: Tom Moore, Last Maps
  • Quilting: Harvey Quilting, Nottingham
  • Wool wadding: Kofibres, Shipley
  • Make: Agnes, Leicester
  • Buttonholes: Bolton

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