The Ledger.

The sleeves crease up more than I expected, so they're coming down a centimetre, to 66cm. The melton, the silk and the press studs go to the studio next week for the first sample in the real cloth.

My notes on the digital pattern have gone back. Antique brass press studs instead of buttons, a zig-zag stitch on the hidden side of the placket and under the collar, a 4mm topstitch and bar tacks on the pockets.

The Stirling's new pattern is finished in digital form, and today I saw it in 3D for the first time.

Still waiting on the yarn. The spinner's batch missed its cone weight and had to be re-spun. It arrives tomorrow and the first sample should follow next week.

The cloth is chosen: Pennine Fabrics' lambswool melton in dark bottle green, at 340gsm. That's less than half the weight of the cavalry twill that made the first sample so stiff. It will be lined in a mulberry silk twill from Beckford Silk, in a green called Lush Meadow.

Our tailor has retired, just as production was lining up. You genuinely couldn't make it up. After six weeks of looking, we've found a replacement.

Jason showed me a lambswool sweater in a birdseye knit today. The texture is lovely, but the way it knits means there's no room for fashioning marks and the seams end up looking bulky and unrefined. It gives with one hand and takes away with the other. We're sticking with the plan: 7 gauge.

The first sample will be knitted in Todd & Duncan lambswool in a white undyed yarn. I probably won't launch in white, but it shows off the fashioning marks and give Jason and I really clear insight into what's working and what isn't.

I've ordered Riri zips are in white, navy and black so that we have options as the samples progress.

The first spec for the Warwick has gone to Jason: a ribbed quarter zip with a 20cm Riri zip and a 64cm body in a Small. It'll be knitted in lambswool rather than merino, to set it apart from the Anson and the Slingsby.

Round two of notes on the Ventura. The sleeve hangs dead straight rather than following the arm, so it's being articulated, and it comes up 2cm to 64.5cm. There's also a hanging loop inside the neck, and a longer overlap on the cuff.