The Ledger.

Prototype two has hit a wall at the factory.

The sleeve lining's too short and won't meet the storm cuff without pulling. Same deal with the lining around the vent and the team have had to replace 16 of the patterns 21 pieces.

I'm not sure where things have gone wrong but I need to figure it out before moving forward.

The last sample was great. For the next one: three centimetres longer in the body, a centimetre longer in the sleeve, a narrower neck and a shorter cuff. It's being knitted in a claret red from Shepley Yarns in Yorkshire.

Twenty metres of Ventile are on their way: Ventile Dry 110 in organic cotton, in stone beige. It's overstock from Ventile themselves.

The block is drafted, with a carrier for a ribbed storm cuff inside the sleeve. I've asked for another 2.5cm on the rib so it doesn't fight with a watch.

We measured two quilted jackets side by side today. One is labelled XS and fits more like a Medium, so we're working from the other's measurements, apart from the front placket. And sharp corners, not rounded ones.

Visited the factory yesterday to go through the changes in person. The first sample was knitted in black, which is almost impossible to photograph. The next one will be in a grey called Smoke.

The first sample is back. The body is too short, the collar is wider and thicker than I wanted, it stands up on its own and there's excess fabric gathering under the arms. At this stage, I don't know what's an easy fix and what's going to set us back but the team are on board so - onwards!

I've sent my pattern cutter drawings for four lighter jackets: a Harrington, a coach jacket, a flight jacket and a quilted jacket. All four are built on the same block.

The factory in Bolton only works from card patterns. Digital, they tell me, is for the high street. So the pattern is in the post to be digitised, before being printed to card.

I want to add knitwear to the line up and, if I can, I want to make it here in the Midlands. A friend has pointed me to a factory in Hucknall, just 45 minutes away.