The Ledger.

Everything for the first sample is on its way to the factory in Bolton. The card pattern, two metres of Hainsworth cavalry twill, the linings, the buttons and the rib for the cuffs.

The latest sample has a wider collar, and where the shoulder is linked to the collar it looks loose. It's a small thing, but small things are what come back as returns. Back it goes.

I'm going to reduce the collar from 3cm to 2cm and the neck, hem and cuffs are changing to a narrower 2x1 rib.

The collar is the big one. I want the sweater to be refined. Something you can wear over a shirt and under a smart jacket. A bulky collar makes it look more like a fisherman's sweater.

The tech pack for the first sample has gone to Bolton. The collar is plain Ventile over wool, not quilted, and will need interfacing to stand up. Navy silk lining, beige storm cuffs, and no snaps on the pockets.

A thousand horn buttons left Padano today.

The pattern is finished: 32 pieces, including a ribbed inner cuff and a template for the buttonholes. It's gone straight off to be printed on card, ready for the factory.

The peacoat has a name: the Hampden.

It takes its name from the Handley Page Hampden, an RAF bomber that first flew in 1936 and served through the early years of the Second World War.

My dad flew in the Nimrod and the Shackleton during his time in the RAF. He's always been fascinated by early aviation and that's part of why I find myself drawn to it.

But there's so much to admire about the industry. The imagination to conceive an aircraft. The ingenuity to make it fly. The skills it took to bring them to life. The courage it took to fly them for the very first time.

Behind each name are designers, engineers and crews, each with their own part in the story. Some opened new routes and possibilities. Others served in circumstances few of us can imagine. Their achievements deserve to be remembered, along with what was asked of them.

So this is where the naming convention begins. Each Barnfield garment will take its name from an RAF aircraft or a connection to British aviation. A nod to my dad, and a small tribute to the people who made that history.

Sample three is underway.

Padano have signed off the artwork. Each button will be engraved BARNFIELD GREAT BRITAIN round the edge, tone on tone. The raw buttons went into production yesterday.

A full day with my pattern cutter. She's drafting the block in a Small first, then adding the details one by one.

The order is in with Padano: a thousand buttons in natural black horn, 40 ligne, semi-polished with no varnish. The sewing holes on the shape I chose were smaller than on the other samples, so Padano are making it with larger ones. That makes it a new button, with its own item number.