The Ledger.

Collected the whole run from the factory today. Before anything goes on sale, every piece gets a once-over on my table.

I've also ordered custom wool combs that I'll include along with a personalised note with each order.  

The cardigan has a name. Fred Slingsby served with the RAF in the First World War and went on to found Slingsby Aviation.

The Hampden will be £1,595, made to order, with no more than four to start production each week. Getting here took three pattern cutters, seven patterns, five sewing technicians and six factories.

Everyone who bought a Lawrence gets 20% off, as a thank you for supporting Barnfield at the very beginning.

The sixth melton prototype is done, and it's the one. The Hampden opens to subscribers at the end of September.

The first order is in. The Anson in grey and the Slingsby in navy, six of each size. The factory says September, give or take a couple of weeks depending on when Shepley can deliver the yarn.

Met the factory to agree the changes: a semi-circular facing at the back and a collar stand one centimetre lower. The sample is a Small, and the pattern will be graded from XS to 2XL.

The Small and the Medium from the size run are spot on.

The first sample is back from Bolton, and the cloth is the problem. At 750gsm, the cavalry twill makes it feel more like a leather or suede jacket. The cuffs need more room, the shoulder seam pinches, and the collar refuses to sit down, so I'd permanently look like Danny Zuko from Grease. With some pattern tweaks, I can still see it working.

The first sample is here, and from a fit perspective I have no comments. It's worked out beautifully. The hem stitch is a little wobbly and the front panels don't line up at the bottom, and I'm wondering about a thin brown leather strip on the collar and cuffs.

The grading is done, with the Medium as the anchor. I've dropped off the natural horn buttons at the factory, and the size run is being knitted in navy, Small to XL.